The End :(

Following my last blog I bumped into several of our other volunteers from Lacacao over the course of the day (Sal Rei is like that, sooo small) as they were set to leave the island the following day :( We arranged to go out for a meal for their last night. That evening we all met in a bar for a bite to eat. There was Isabel and Angel from Madrid were the nicest couple, really genuine and caring people. Then there was Sandra from Portugal, a stunning lady- you would never guess her age. Daniela from Switzerland, Rudy the local, the Sergeant of our soldiers and Dominguez, one of the local assistants. It was a nice good-bye and good to socialise out side of the campsite. Just a shame the others could not be there with us.

The following day I eventually arrived back at camp and opted for an early night as I was set for the Censos at 4:30am. I awoke at 4 for my routine coffee bread and jam and had a good feeling. Whilst I had been away for the previous day 11 hatchlings had been found left in one of the nests and a few other nests had hatched. As me and Bid Joy (all the soldiers have nick names) strolled down Lacacao beach we came across 2 small tracks, these were definitely not crab tracks. We each followed a tracked each; they looped up towards the construction site and back down towards the sea. Gradually more and more tracks became apparent and as we neared the nest tracks ran in every direction, up the beach, down the beach around and around, everywhere. It was sad to see so many that had headed the complete opposite way to the sea, the lights from the construction site the culprit for sure. Once we had checked the tracks heading the wrong way to see if we could save them in time (with no luck) we set about excavating the nest for research purposes, and to see if there were any left that were unable to get out.

We found 3 alive and kicking hatchling, 80 empty shells that had hatched and made it out of the nest (we know this as there were so many tracks) 5 that had not made it out in time. There were just 2 eggs that ha not hatched at all so we re-buried these, just on the off chance.

Once we had finished the excavation we set about releasing the 3 hatchlings that we had saved. Usually its something that you do at nighttime to minimize the predator factor but as the sun had just come up we decided it was better to do it then (previous times the babies have been kept at the camp throughout the heat of the day and not even made it to the evening to be released)

It was an amazing feeling, my first releases. The feelings of satisfaction, triumphant hope, and the journey ahead all mixed together. The finish line had been reached for these hatchlings; the ultimate reason beyond the poachers, tagging the mothers and collecting the research came at this point. The final part of the reason I was there, the moment I had been waiting for was bliss. They wobbled and dragged them selves down the sand, fighting against the waves as they swept through and push them back. 10 pulls forwards, 15 back. They were persistent though and did not stop trying, again they pulled their way forwards and as the next wave washed past them they used their remaining energy to surf their way back on the retreating water.

They had made it.

We then completed the Censos on Lacacao and headed for the next beach to survey, Curralito. As we passed along the cliff overlooking the beach I suddenly spotted tracks running down, similar to the nest we had just seen but this time almost all in the right direction :) We excavated the nest and found 1 alive hatchling, again the same feelings returned as we released him. As we returned to camp I grabbed my snorkel and U-turned straight to the beach. There was an extreme calmness about the sea today, no waves at all, something I have not seen since my arrival 5 weeks prior. I spotted all kinds of fish and sizes; it’s a magical world. Sometimes I wonder if lived in the sea in a past life haaaa.

The following day (05102010) consisted of lots more snorkeling. Its something that I had not had a chance to do in all my time here so I was making the most of it. Later that night with minimal mosquitoes about I lay on the sand gazing at the stars listening to some phat tunes. I reflected on my times here so far, where it was taking me and indulged myself in the peace and tranquility, what a space to be in.

On the 6th I completed the posters I had designed for our beach clean up. We were set to put them up at the construction site, we felt it an important thing to try and engage them within the work, it might even put the beaches in better stead for when we were gone, the cam and the project the following week. With no one to overlook the beach it was now down to who ever was about to keep an eye on things. We headed to the site to put the posters up and have a nice cold refreshing beer, well deserved :) After this I went for another snorkel and found a small lobster covered in a purple shell. When I got back from the beach Ukie was dropping off our supplies and there to say good bye. He had 4 days work on another island and most of us were set to leave within that time. What a good man and cool friend. Later that night I was set for a patrol on Curral Velho the beast of a beach, my favorite patrol (after the censos) but one I had not done for a long time. When I got back I remembered quite how long and hard the patrol can be- I already miss it.

The following day (08102010) was spent largely reflecting and realising how little time I had left. Asked if I wanted to choose my patrol for my nearly last patrol, I jumped on the censos for Lacacao/Curralito.

Up at 5 with my Cafe and bread with jam n peanut butter mmmmm. This was the best day, best patrol, or easily one of. Lacacao 1 hatched nest with 4 babies that we released following the excavation. Curralito consisted of 3 hatched nests, tracks running everywhere :) We excavated finding 3 hatchlings in the first, 7 in the next and in the 3rd there were none but this is actually a really good thing because it means they were fit and strong as all had hatched, none were dead and no signs of crabs :)

It’s really hard and is almost unbelievable that it’s really nearly over. 6 weeks have flown by and I wish they were not already ending. I headed for a snorkel, I was really keen to spot some sharks as a lot of people have spotted hem now. It was still fairly early, around 7.10am following the censos so I sat and gazed in to the sea for a while. Suddenly I spotted 2 baby reef sharks so ran down to the water, as I began to snorkel I spotted them but they were gone in an instant. But there it was, albeit only for few seconds.

The last day and night at Lacacao :( The 9th October 2010

Again I opted for the censos, finding a further 5 hatchling for release :)

The day of the beach clean up. It was really successful! A number of the construction workers joined us for the clean up and the beach was spotless by the time we finished, making it even nicer than ever. Following the clean up Bid Joy, David, Matss and I decided, as it was the last night we should probably have a beer or 2 to celebrate, the only problem was that the bar at the construction site would be closed within 10 minutes. We sprinted our way down and just about made it, a cold beer was needed. There was lots of laughing, joking and dancing before our final patrol. I headed to Lacacaco beach with Carrie to head the patrol and it was strange, the last time I would walk these sands.

Ok picture this. Pitch-black darkness with the clearest twinkling stars with the waves crashing around you. Now X the number of stars in your imagination by 20. This is not the sky that night or any other night. As we looked down when we were half way along the beach that is what we saw. Following a high tide a large pool of water had been left to slowly drain from the beach, leaving a sky of sparkling plankton in its wake

'Its often mislabeled as "phosphorescence" which is a kind of chemical reaction. The tiny phytoplankton that create the glowing sands phenomenon do so by a biological process called bioluminescence' - (ref: http://www.beachconnection.net/news/glowsa082810_633.php )

It is one of the most spectacular things I have seen and is truly amazing how similar it looked to an extremely stary galaxy. I knelt down by the hallow pool of water; the sparkling plankton consumed the edges of the pool. As I levitated my hand 1cm above the water the bluish lights came to life. Suddenly the whole puddle began to light up and close in on the centre of the pool, it was incredible, and I was almost left speechless. It began to look like a birds eye view of a city from above. Science and nature truly can be magical! Wish I'd had my camera with me :(

10092010. A sad day for all. The soldiers are heading back on their boat for Sal Rei, Volunteers are flying back home and the camp will be taken down tomorrow. Then that will be it. Our campsite and work is finished. I have not met or spoken to another British person for 6 weeks and it has been refreshing. I have gained friends from all over the world- Spain, Portugal, Brazil, Cabo Verde, USA, Switzerland and Germany. I realise how lucky I have been to work on this project and with these people. I really, truly recommend that you consider experiencing this next season. You can spend 2 weeks or even 2 months, either way you will have the time of your life. I have learnt so much and have already begun to take the next step.

I received a response for the RFA job I applied for in Costa Rica and it has been accepted. I will be flying out on the 18102010 and be spending up to 4 months on the project. I am bursting with excitement and cant wait to see what adventures and stories are in store for me.

I really hope I get to see you over the next few days, and if I don’t look after yourselves. I will be way for Xmas but will see you all in the New Year. Big love. S x

The Beginning of the End

So... last blog I was pretty gutted at being able to make the 2 dives on the friday but hay, these things happen. Later that day I arrived back at the camp and as I arrived Amanda and Carrie were set to leave for a few days off and Daniela and Andreia had now left. It felt a little bit odd once the car traveled off into the distance, it was always me, Carrie and Amanda from the day I arrived so the camp had a different feel to it without them, kind of empty. My shift was 1-6am and one of the more comedy shifts. I was set to do the censos on the way back so spent the first couple of hours patroling followed by an hours sleep on the beach. I remember waking up at one point with a sudden pain on my finger, opened my eyes to see a crab on my chest, grabbing hold of my finger. With that I flinched my hand and the crab flew through the air. Huh, wont be trying to eat me again hay. So back to sleep and shortly after 2 smaller crabs were nibbling my toes, cant a guy get any beach sleep around here!

We had a temporary new addition to the camp in the form of Rudy, a Boa Vistian tour guide who was having a bit of a holiday and break from the tourists and was allowed to join our camp on the terms of helping with patrols. He brought 2 surfboards with him, what a legend!! So as you can guess I was over the moon and on the 25th we went for a surf. He is a bit of a pro surfer and surfs a modest 5 foot 2 board, the one I lent must have been 5 foot 5 tops. As a bit of a begginer its fair to say this was a hard surf, great fun trying though.

Since I arrived here I have done a lot of drawing and had some compliments, with which for some reason I find really hard to accept, but am obviously over joyed when I have received them. The soldiers and locals have paid particular interest. I have made a few tshirts for the soldiers, including their military logo design. I have a few more Tee designs to print when I get back :) I have also been working on a tattoo design for myself but cant quite get it together. Its something I have been meaning to do for a good few years but its hard, and weird, the thought of putting a mark on your body for life. Maybe it will never happen.

In my 5 weeks since I arrived I have turned a corner with reading. I have never been a big reader, not because I have not been interested or find actual reading hard but because I find it very hard to get into a book, one- because they're to small. and two- only certain books have grabbed my attention enough to get to the end. There really have only been a handful of books that have entertained me enough to finish them in recent times. I can honestly say ´Atonement´ has been really influential on me. I think it has helped me to write this blog, the descriptions given and the story are a must read for anyone who has not already.

I then read ´Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy´within a day or two, again this is also a must read, so funny and I swear the author must have been high when he came up with the plot, im guessing it was written around the time acid was everywhere.

Since then I have also read ´The Kite Runner´which provides an insight into culture in Afghanistan, it takes you on an experience of emotions and is ultimately a sad story of two friends. I am sure if you have read any of these books then you will agree the recommendation, if you have not already then check them out.

Any way thats my book critic section over, back to the campsite and Rudy is cooking up some food (which will turn out to be the best meal in CaboVerde so far) I have lent him my speakers to play his Ipod through and he has put on some 'Saydi' tunes. Not my kind of music but they made me think of you sis, looking forwards to getting back and catching up with you. He cooked a 3 coures Italian meal and it really made a pleasant change from the usual rice, vegetables and canned meat. I have pretty much become a vegetarian most of the time out here, I find the concept of canned meat unappertizing an just not quite right.

On the 27th I had the early morning shift of 6-10 for the Censos again. The early morning sun is usually the cooler part of the day, but not today! The blistering sun on your back is a force so strong, all you can do is try and press on. Eventually we came across some palm trees and it was sooo nice and cool stepping into the shade. That feeling of walking through a desert trying to escape the heat will be a permanent memory for me.

Later that night I was out on patrol 9.30-2.00 on the same beach as the morning (Curral Velho) the beach is about 5.5k walk so 2 round trips totaled about 22k that day, and this is walking on sand, its really hard work but really rewarding when you get back and think of what you have done. On the patrol we found 3 dead hatchlings from a nest which had hatched ealier that night, and one that the dog got just before us. The dogs are not supposed to come but will sometimes turn up on the patrol. We took the turtle back to camp to try and save him but it did not make it through the night. Thus providing further reasoning, along with the obvious fact that dogs are one of their main predators, that they should not be there in the first place.

I was then up again at 5.45 the following morning (28th) to help with the excavations. We dig up any old nests that look like they have been sabotaged by crabs, already hatched or may be at risk (so for reloaction) We came across a few dead hatchlings that had not been able to make it out of the nest. A lot that had hatched and even more with only a few shells left in the bottom. These ones have been eaten by crabs. Later that eve was a sleepy one, I was knackered.

The following day we received a special visit. In my time since I arrived we have had several visits including some by the organisers, the German camera man making a documentary and various other related guests. Today was different though, through the planning it felt like we were expecting royalty. The visitor was the Minister of Defence for Cabo Verde. The soldiers were in formation and the camp cleaned up to an appropriate level. We introduced ourselves and answered a few questions. She came across as a really pleasant woman and thanked us for our participation and work within biodiversity, she also recognised that it was quite an experience for us as well which I thought was nice touch. It shows she had really thought about it and ment what she was saying.

Its early morning following patrol. As I unwrap my plastered foot, as if it were an unwanted xmas present, I just for one minute look forward to giving my feet a chance to heal. My feet are covered in bites aswell but it is the layers of blisters that are causing the problems. Sand constantly enters my shoe and revolves around. Every time one blister has nearly healed another bobs up from below the previous. You manage though, as soon as you are on that beach in the moon light amongst the turtles you forget about any of that, and realise again that it really is worth it.

30092010 brought about the next soldier exchange and there was a buzz about Lacacao. We would be welcoming back a few of the previous soldiers and I knew at least a few of us who were keen on this. The current ones had been ok but the feeling around the campsite had not been the same as before. Later that evening I had to miss patrol as had begun to feel ill again. When I awoke in the morning I felt much of the same, fortunately this fell on my day off, I was set to head back to Sal Rei.

We arrived in town and instead of doing the sensible thing and getting some rest we went for a beer, later that night, after a pizza snack, Carrie and I cooked up some british fish and chips for Ukie as we were staying at his appartment. A few more beers and my head was banging, I hit the hay and was out for the count.

Today (02102010 + only 9 days left :( Today I have been mostly updating this for who ever may read and myself in the future. I am still really annoyed that I have been unable to share my photos but this will be done when I return to sunny ol´ England. I now know my plans for the rest of the trip and have mixed emotions. I arrive back in England on the 12th, in Manchester of all places. I have however had some contact with an organisation in Costa Rica and applied for a RFA (Research Field Assistant) placement. It would mean no cost to be there and all accomodation/food etc supplied. I would just need to pay to travel out there. I have spoken to a lot of people here who have been, and told me how magical it is. You can be in the rainforest amongst waterfalls one minute, then the next jumping into the tropical sea. I look forwards and hope that my trip takes me to anywhere slightly as incedible as this. The work will again be with turtles, but I will then be looking to extend my trip and work within the rainforest. I love life.

There will be one last blog around the time I get back to the UK, I really hope you have enjoyed the read and look out for pics soon!! See you soon. Sam x